Frequently Asked Questions

Probably not, we start building your order soon after you've placed it. You can email or call us to confirm whether your order can be changed or not.

RMRcc

• Trijicon RMR®cc

DeltaPoint Pro

• Leupold DeltaPoint Pro
• Shield RMS**
• Shield SMS**
• Sightmark Mini Shot A-Spec**
• Sig Sauer Romeo Zero**

Holosun K-Type

• Holosun 407K
• Holosun 507K
• Holosun EPS
• Holosun EPS Carry

ACRO

• Aimpoint ACRO C-1
• Aimpoint ACRO C-2
• Aimpoint ACRO P-1
• Aimpoint ACRO P-2
• Lead & Steel PB-3
• Steiner MPS**

RMR (Coming July 4, 2023)

• Trijicon SRO
• Trijicon RMR Type 2
• Holosun 407C
• Holosun 507C

No, the optic cut is milled directly into the slide.

Our lead times change from week to week. Check out the relevant product page for current lead times.

No. Transfer fees will depend on the dealer but they are typically around $20-$50, paid on receipt.

The Platypus maintains the 1911 grip angle of 17.5 degrees.

Yes!

No. The Platypus requires dimensional changes to traditional 1911 Thumb Safety designs.

The Platypus does not fit holsters made for the Springfield DS Prodigy™ or the Staccato 2011®. The profile of the Platypus is the same as a standard 1911 from the slide stop forward. At this time, we are unable to guarantee compatibility with specific holsters, but we are working with holster companies to get that information ASAP.

We typically send guns out with a trigger pull around 4.0lb. Using a firearm with a pull weight under 3.0lb can be dangerous, but if you know what you are doing, you can request a lower trigger weight for your order.

The Platypus has been tested and will work with OEM Gen 3, Gen 4, and Gen 5 Glock® mags. It has also been tested with aftermarket mags from KCI and Magpul.

An 80% lower receiver or 80% frame is a partially completed (i.e., 80% complete) piece of metal (generally steel or aluminum) that typically requires special tooling to be converted into what is considered a "firearm".

On April 11, 2022, the ATF updated their definition of "Frame or Receiver" to make it less clear what is actually considered a "Frame or Receiver". Stealth Arms 80% Frames may or may not fall under the new definition. We now require an FFL transfer when purchasing 80% frames. However, there is currently a legal battle for overturning this rule.

Call 419-925-7005 for details.

If you are completing Stealth Arms 80% frames, and you take care of the cutters for the Phantom Jig (meaning, make sure you don't drop the car and chip them, or break them in any way) and take care when drilling the Hammer and Sear pin holes so you don't wallow out the guide holes in the side plates, you should have no problem completing up to 10 frames without replacing any cutters or side plates for the Phantom Jig. HOWEVER, if you decide you want to finish out a steel or stainless steel frame with your Phantom Jig, we recommend buying an extra set of cutters right off the bat, because they will get dull much quicker when cutting steel or stainless steel frames. And, as you should in most situations involving a lot of friction, make sure to use plenty of lube!

Yes and no. While the Phantom Jig was designed for Stealth Arms 80% billet-machined 1911 frames, it should work on all colt spec single stack 1911 frames. But, because steel and stainless steel are tougher to machine, it will take a little more patience and effort to finish the rails and barrel seat with the Phantom Jig. By taking shallower cuts with each pass of the Phantom Jig cutters on steel and stainless steel frames, you will still produce satisfactory results, but it will take a little more time to complete the 80% steel or stainless steel frame, as opposed to aluminum frames. Three inserts are almost always required to finish the frame.

As with any billet-machined parts, they will have machining marks on them. These marks are purely cosmetic and have no effect on functionality or quality of the products. We realize that you will want to finish the frames, slides, and parts of your build to your liking, so we give you the option to have them shipped to you either raw (hot off the machine) or with a light bead-blasting that is consistent with the requirements set forth by the various gun-coating companies for applying their gun coatings to your new build. While the bead-blasted finish is functional in that it is recommended if you decide to apply a ceramic-based gun coating, it also gives the raw steel or aluminum a nice matte finish, eliminating any machine marks. In short, the bead-blast finish is just prettier.

No! The Recoil Spring Guide Rod that comes with the Stealth Arms Complete Build Kit is an “extended” or “full-length guide rod.” It is supposed to be that long. You will notice that the guide rods in our kit come with a supplied hex key wrench (Allen wrench). This is because the guide rod is a 2-piece extended guide rod. You will need to disassemble the guide rod by unscrewing the extension from the flanged end of the guide rod. You will assemble the barrel, slide, and guide rod as you would with a normal-length guide rod, then once you get the slide assembly onto the frame and the barrel bushing locked in place, you can insert the guide rod extension (threaded end first) through the hole in the recoil spring plug. Push the extension in until it stops, then use the hex key to screw the guide rod back together. Make sure you snug it up pretty tight to ensure that it doesn’t come loose while firing the completed build.

A Government frame is made for a full-length 5” barrel and full-length slide. It is the standard “full size” frame for a 1911. The Government frame is consistent with the Classic 1911 look. The same is true for the Tactical Government frame, however the Tactical frame comes equipped with an integrated accessory (tactical) rail under the dust cover for attaching accessories such as a tactical flashlight or laser sight with Picatinny attachment ability. A Commander frame is the same as a Government-sized frame, however, it has a shortened dust cover and shortened slide rails to accommodate a 4.25” barrel and Commander-sized slide. A Government slide will not fit right on a Commander frame, and a Commander Slide will not work on a Government frame.

No.

The difference between a Series 70 and a Series 80 1911 is simply that there is a firing pin safety feature incorporated into the Series 80, whereas the Series 70 does not have the firing pin safety feature. While it is debatable on which one is “better,” the general consensus in the 1911 community is that the extra firing pin safety found in the Series 80 1911's is undesirable due to the extra moving parts (extra parts means extra things to go wrong) and since the firing pin safety is deactivated via the trigger bow, it adds extra weight and “grit” to the trigger pull if not tended to by a trained gunsmith. That being said, The Stealth Arms 80% 1911 frames are made to Series 70 specifications, meaning our frames will not have the necessary clearance cuts for the extra parts that are included in the Series 80s. However, you are still able to use a Series 80 slide on a Series 70 frame by simply removing the firing pin safety from the Series 80 slide. You cannot use a Series 80 frame with a Series 70 slide without purchasing a “spacer kit” to fill in the extra space in the frame so the hammer and sear stay where they’re supposed to. We do not sell the spacer kit to convert a Series 80 frame to a Series 70.

It is legal to build your own firearm for personal use, as long as you can legally own a firearm. No serial number is required. However, it is suggested to engrave a serial number, model, and manufacturer on your receiver or frame in case it is lost or stolen. You must complete the lower or frame yourself - it is not legal for you to purchase and have another person finish it for you. All regulations under the National Firearms Act (NFA), issued by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms, and Explosives (ATF), and other related regulations apply to your firearm.

This is also true for the state of California.

Quoted from the ATF website:

"Individuals manufacturing sporting-type firearms for their own use need not hold Federal Firearms Licenses (FFLs). However, we suggest that the manufacturer at least identify the firearm with a serial number as a safeguard in the event that the firearm is lost or stolen. Also, the firearm should be identified as required in 27 CFR 478.92 if it is sold or otherwise lawfully transferred in the future."

Source: http://www.atf.gov/firearms/faq/firearms-technology.html

Please review the NFA before using any product distributed by Stealth Arms: 

https://www.atf.gov/content/firearms/firearms-industry/national-firearms-act

Please review all ATF regulations before using any product distributed by Stealth Arms: 

https://www.atf.gov/content/firearms

Additionally, you may create a short-barreled rifle out of your firearm via a BATFE (Bureau of Alcohol Tobacco Firearms and Explosive) Form 1 after BATFE approval.

*Stealth Arms does not provide guidance or legal opinions on whether or not its products should or should not be used or manufactured in your specific state, county, or city. It is the customer's sole responsibility to make that decision.

Completed 80% lowers are subject to the same laws that apply to any normal firearm. If you live in California then you need to be careful to follow the laws related to the assault weapons ban in effect in California. In general, if you build an AR15 style rifle with a pistol grip, you will need a "bullet button." There are also "featureless" configurations that do not require a "bullet button." For more info on following California laws, Calguns.net has a very helpful and informative flowcart:

http://www.calguns.net/caawid/flowchart.pdf

*Stealth Arms does not provide guidance or legal opinions on whether or not its products should or should not be used or manufactured in your specific state, county, or city. It is the customer's sole responsibility to make that decision.